Monday 3 September 2012

Taste of Mogul


Taste of Mogul

The Taste of Mogul is a long established Twickenham Indian restaurant, which not long ago came under new management.  As Bob Dylan so rightly observed, The Times, They Are a-Changin’.  Several local curry houses have gone (Indus, Ragam II and the short-lived Karahi Spices spring to mind), while two others, Atithi and Ghurka’s Inn, have recently opened and are highly rated by this blogsite.  This must be a challenge to the nearby Taste of Mogul, just up the road from them in York Street.

The Taste of Mogul is a reasonably large restaurant, in contrast to a number of rather cramped others in smaller premises.  However, the tables seem to be not quite large enough, and it is a bit of a struggle to fit in all the plates and glasses.  The walls are painted lively contrasting colours, and the floor is of wood.  There is music, a mixture of traditional Indian and western, played at a reasonable volume.  There were a number of other customers when we were there, giving a pleasant ambiance, but the restaurant was far from full.

We went on a Thursday night, when a ‘five-course’ banquet meal is offered for £11.95.  This comprises papadom, starter, main course, side dish and rice or naan.  (I would regard this as a three-course meal, since the main, side and rice are eaten together; but Taste of Mogul is by no means the only restaurant to describe each item as a course.)  The choice can be made from the entire menu: the only restriction is that a supplement is payable for king prawn dishes.

We opted for this deal.  The padadoms were fresh and crisp, served with a good variety of pickles and chutneys.  There was a wide choice of starters on the menu; but we found that there was also a wide variety in their quality.  The prawn puree was deemed to be a success, but the tandoori lamb chops came out over-tandooried and were more charcoal than lamb.  The vegetable samosas were pleasant without being exceptional.

We all opted for chicken dishes for the main course.  The meat in the chicken sagwala, chicken tikka jalfrezi and chicken shaslik was tender, well cooked and tasty; but it was the vegetable side dishes that were a disappointment.  These in our opinion were mainly overcooked, mushy and bland.  Most of the meal was brought to the table on a trolley all together; but one vegetable dish and a plate of pilau rice came afterwards.  These vegetables – bhindi bhajee – were scalding hot, presumably having just come out of the microwave.

The service was attentive, with a number of waiters; and the manager was obviously trying to please – we were asked more than once if everything was all right.  The pickles and chutneys which accompanied the papadoms were left on the table for the starters (but not for the main course – perhaps there wasn’t enough room).  The draft Kingfisher was served cool, and tasted fresh; but at over £4 a pint rather offset the bargain of the banquet.

On the whole, a mixed review: the meal had its good points, but we thought the standard could be significantly improved by taking more care over the preparation and cooking of the vegetables.  Unfortunately, two of our group suffered upset stomachs, one during the night and the other in the morning. As a result of this the marks that were given after the meal were reassessed and the amended marks we awarded are:

Price:              7

Service:          7.2

Quality:          5.8

Ambiance:     6.8

Total:              26.8

 30th August 2012